Islay 2014: Bruichladdich Warehouse Experience

Ohh Bruichladdich.

Bruichladdich became our favourite whisky distillery during our first visit to Islay, when we arrived on the island as relative newbies to the glorious nectar. Their innovation, knowledge and enthusiasm is clear throughout the entire process, and the experimental nature of the whiskies they produce is second to none. Since then, we've sampled a more extensive range of their drams and been consistently surprised and delighted by the whisky they make. We knew that on our recent trip we wanted to find out more than the standard distillery tour can offer, and so we booked ourselves onto the warehouse experience.

The event itself takes place in the first warehouse directly behind the main production house of the distillery, in a wooden floored building filled with rows of barrels, the light smell of oak and the mist of the angels' share. We were led by Raymond, our exuberant guide for the afternoon, halfway down the rows of barrels into an opening where three casks lay. Moving deeper into the warehouse from this point I can only imagine that amongst the secrets of Jim McEwan lies the Arc of the Covenant. The first two casks were not obviously marked, but the third filled us instantly with glee as it was brandished with our favourite 8 letter word. Octomore. But we had to contain our excitement as that, quite rightly, was to be left until last.

Our experience opened with a 25 year old Bourbon cask Laddie: an unpeated delight distilled in 1989, weighing in at 53.5% ABV. This light, fruity whisky was the perfect starting point for the tasting: a softly sweet nose, singing of honey and vanilla-laden creme brulee, which gave way to a fresh, citrussy palate. This whisky was happily described by Raymond as a suitable replacement for milk on cereal and frankly I'd be happy with the switch. This felt a particular treat for us too as it was the first ever dram either of us have had from our birth year!

Laura learning the ways of the Valinch!

The second generously measured whisky was a 2005 Port Charlotte. This was certainly a step-up in terms of peatedness, although due to being aged in a Spanish Grenache cask, it also had a deliciously sumptuous winey quality on the nose. The palate allowed the smoke to come through, with the age of the whisky also providing a much larger heat all the way around the taste. This was a really well rounded whisky that due to the excellent choice of cask built flavour and sophistication over its nine years, whilst still maintaining a prickly heat of peat all the way through the drink and down to the stomach.

Then we came to the pièce de résistance, possibly our favourite whisky we have ever drunk (and we rarely agree quite so thoroughly!): The Octomore Chateau d'Yquem. This was also the rarest of the bunch, as the cask we where drinking from was so close to its end that there may now be none left, and it's only other counter part will not be released to the public or used as another tasting barrel for events like these - instead, it will be at the mercy of Jim McEwan.

While this barrel of Octomore (produced as a prototype for the now commercially available releases) hadn't been peated as highly as the bottled release, it still packs a 80.5ppm punch. For this dram we were all told to wait for everyone to be served a dram then all to drink in synchrony. Although there were only six glasses to be filled from the valinch, the low level of precious liquid left in the barrel meant it took a few return trips to the cask. While we waited, the aroma rose from the glass instantly with a significant white wine sweetness.

3... 2... 1....... PHWOAR.

Instantly the strength coupled with the peat punch was apparent, warming up through the nose and powering around the head. Allowing the whisky some time on the palate meant that the sweetness of the cask swept in, finding parts of the mouth that had never been stimulated before and balancing out the smokiness. On the swallow, the tingly numbness of the peat was left behind alongside the delightful charms of the wine cask, which nurtured a lovely warm feeling in the belly. The Octomore series clearly has its roots in experimentation, and it works phenomenally well. We'll definitely be on the lookout for a release of the 310ppm version which we've heard is currently relaxing in the warehouse.

Having found out that Bruichladdich had been bought by Remy Cointreau shortly after our trip in 2012, we were a bit apprehensive that some of their fiercely independent spirit would have been lost by the time we returned this year, but we absolutely needn't have worried. The warehouse experience - part whisky tasting, part stand up comedy gig thanks to Raymond's excellent patter - was the highlight of our entire holiday. All the distilleries on Islay really make the effort to ensure the whisky pilgrims are well looked after, but for the warehouse tour Bruichladdich went the extra mile. We felt totally spoilt by the stunning whiskies on offer, and are still in awe that we've tasted something incredible that only hundreds of people in the whole world will ever be able to try.

L-R: Our holiday pals Jimmy and Jasmine, Jim, Raymond, and Laura

We spent the rest of the afternoon playing a selection of tunes on a little Bruichladdich guitar, forgetting we'd already eaten our lunch and napping on the beach. Top day.

Slainte,

J&L

Islay 2014: Bowmore Open Day

Having stayed in the middle of nowhere during our first trip to Islay, we decided that this time we wanted something a bit more central, and chose a lovely little cottage in Bowmore. On our first morning, we took a stroll down to the distillery - it would have been rude not to, seeing as we could see the chimneys from our bedroom window - and discovered that we'd arrived on a good day.

The view from our bedroom

Shrouded in the smell of delicious whisky wash the distillery was hosting an open day, with complimentary tours and a few added extras, in exchange for donations to local care home Gortanvogie and Islay Hospital. Whilst we waited for our tour, we relaxed on the balcony with a Bowmore Surf and ginger beer. A lime slice in your dram is probably frowned upon in many a distillery, but this little cocktail worked perfectly in the sunshine alongside a mini lemon drizzle cake.

The tour was hosted by Heather, a genuine Ileach and certainly a woman with Bowmore running through her veins. Bowmore is the oldest distillery on the island, and the tour demonstrated how they maintain a stout commitment to tradition, still carrying out every part of the whisky-making on site. We were led through the Old Maltings (where Jim had a little go with the grubber) to the kiln, before going on to the mash house, past the six enormous wash backs named after previous distillery owners, to the still room and the incredible No. 1 vaults.

Amongst their 28,500 casks on site, the warehouse holds a cask of 49 year old bourbon aged whisky, that the angels have had far more than their fair share of. With strong suspicions that this may be due to be bottled on its 50th year, look out for it as it will no doubt be something a little bit special.

Inside the No. 1 vaults

A Bowmore Darkest hot chocolate and a few wee drams back in the lounge rounded off the afternoon. There's something about a tour that makes you feel that bit more attached to the distillery - as Heather put it, "you have a passion for the whole island, but for only one distillery" and Bowmore certainly had won us over.

Slainte,

J&L

Whisky Review #2: Talisker 10 Year

I have had this whisky sat in the cupboard for a while, and for no particular reason, as it isn't expensive and it is a lovely dram.

I think really it is because it is a combination of both of these things: for one I didn't want to finish it as it was pretty darn tasty, and because it was relatively cheap meant I would often select something else from the cupboard.

Talisker 10 has a nose that just has smokiness bandied around willy nilly, like a smouldering peat throwing monkey is being contained within the glass. There are also hints of fruitiness, as though the monkey has been washed in an apple shampoo (obviously in a way that PETA would approve).

Festival paper cup dram

As it opens up, the monkey is released back into the wild leaving a more subtle peated fuminess, accompanied by sweet orchard notes and the lovely smells of the coastal seaweed.

The palate stays ashen: intense without being too overpowering. This time there is a light seasoning of peppery heat and a seaweedy saltiness, all carried along by a great barley chew.

The finish lingers with a gentle, sweet smokiness - like lying in a barley field having a little puff on a pipe.

For me, despite the peatiness it is still open for those less inclined to the sometimes astringent medicinal nature of other well peated whiskies. Priced at around £35 from Master of Malt it is a bargain.

Slainte,

Jim

Karma Citra: Beer and Desserts

Relatively new to the growing Sheffield craft beer scene, Karma Citra are a group of beer enthusiasts who have recently started hosting an array of interesting events. This one was no exception - beer and pudding. Who can resist that?!

Held in the laid-back setting of Brewdog, we were greeted by "I hope you're hungry" - always a good sign when you're about to embark on a four-course meal of pudding!

We started on the "light option" - Buxton Far Skyline Berliner Weisse served with a lemon mousse. Unusually strong for this style of beer at 4.9%, initially I found the Buxton a little too sour for my taste - not something I'd usually go for. However after gobbling down some of the tart yet sweet lemon mousse (and getting a fair amount all over my face), the sourness softened and the fruity, hoppy characteristics of the beer came to the fore, making it deliciously palatable. The sweet and sour combination was ultimately a winner, and we scored it 9/10 - the bar had been set!

Second up was Weihenstephaner Hefeweisse, paired with a banana and peanut butter cheesecake. Hailing from the oldest brewery in the world, the Hefeweisse was tasty, if a little on the thin side - although the clean feeling it left on the palate was welcomed. However, again the dessert accompaniment really brought the beer to life and enhanced the banana-y flavour present in the style, and the two together worked really well. Score: 8/10.

We all needed a little bit of a rest after this, before the third offering was brought out - Magic Rock's collaboration with Norwegian brewery Lervig Aktiebryggeri - Farmhouse IPA, served with a carrot cupcake, with cream cheese icing. The beer was all classic IPA on the nose, with a great hoppy flavour and just a hint of citrussy spice. The spiciness of the carrot cake complemented this well and little hints of orange in there went nicely with the hoppy nature of the beer. A solid 7/10.

And then came the piece de resistance, and what a finale it was! Brewdog Cocoa Psycho brownie (Meghan's recipe can be found here) and a Sam Smith's Chocolate Stout float, with vanilla ice cream, a generous helping of squirty cream and chocolate sprinkles. The Cocoa Psycho gave a wonderfully sumptuous coffee and chocolate flavour and was just everything you could ever want from a brownie - the beer float was almost delicate in comparison! This whole lot came with a jug of cream on the side "to make it less heavy". That's my kind of pud. Full marks all round from the table-10/10!

From now on, I demand that all my drinks come as a float and that all my Sundays be decadent.

All gone!

Cheers,

Laura

Old and Rare Whisky at the Broadfield

With the heady wafts of five fine whiskies in front of us, we arrived again for another tasting in the upstairs room of the Broadfield. The evening was a warm one, due to both the weather and the extreme popularity of the soon to be international tasting events run by Ed Daly (@whiskycurator). As well as the excellent whisky on offer, there was also a selection of exquisite food planned by chef Rob, to complement and contrast with our drams.

We opened with a spectacular whisky from Bowmore: the 16 year (1989 release). This bottling is a limited release that due to its excellence has sold out from most places, but can still be purchased for almost double its original price from auction sites. The whisky hums lightly of the sea, coupled with a smoked lime sherbet. Even more of the salty, iodine flavours came out on the taste, which paired perfectly with the sweetness from the bourbon cask. The whisky is bottled at 51.8% but doesn't have the heat expected from cask strength. It is a whisky that does everything you would expect from a Bowmore, but on a level not often seen.

Seared king scallops with candied leek, served on a bed of truffle polenta were served alongside: the food managed to find a careful balance of sweetness in the leek and sea-saltiness in the scallop to enhance the flavours of the whisky.

Yamazaki Mizanara is a truly rare whisky, and one that has not yet been released in the UK, but had been acquired for the evening by our host. This whisky is aged in a Mizanara cask, a kind of Japanese oak not often used as it is a slow growing tree and very temperamental in casks (it expands and contracts erratically and leakage is often inevitable), which makes it the most expensive bottle of the evening (around £250 a bottle). It has the smell of lingering minty incense and apricots, that continues to grow on the palate to a flavour unlike anything else we've ever tried, with flavours of malted fruits and a sweet woodiness of tobacco. The finish is of a light fruitiness and subtle smoke.

The food accompaniment in this case was potted rabbit, hazelnut tuille and woodland pesto made from nettles, garlic, sorrel and lovage. A great earthiness from the pesto intensifies with the flavours of the Japanese oak. The rabbit itself is bold and rich and the hazelnut tuille provided the perfect level of sweetness.

The next dram was a Fettercairn 24 year. The smell was of a Victorian retiring room during tea service: wafts of old leather, fruit scones and a small sherry. A little further into the smell came the tickly heat of black pepper and walnut. On the taste was the same retiring room, this time late evening with a large glass of sherry and a toffee pudding, plus a lovely spice creeping in on the finish.


Pan fried pigeon breast with a summer berry kebab and a strawberry balsamic jus was the pairing here. Pigeon is one of my favourite pieces of poultry and this was a fine example of how good game can be.

The oldest whisky of the evening came second to last in the form of Glenfarclas 30, which has an incredibly rounded nose of sweet toffee with treacle that gives way to citrus punch. The sherry finish is exquisitely sticky and rounded across the mouth but steps up a notch with delightful spiced dried fruit. Whilst this whisky was awesome, its age means for me that there is a little loss of a certain characteristic - the flavours all marry together so well that we both found it almost bland.

This was served with an ideal accompaniment: venison tortellini with sautéed wild mushrooms. The richness of this dish worked really well with the hearty nature of the whisky.

The final dram of the night was undoubtedly the most special. We were initially taken by surprise by the colour - blush pink! This turned out to be Bruichladdich 10 year "Duplex" - a private cask bottling, with 244 bottles produced. Finished in very rare Petrus wine casks and personally bottled by Jim McEwan, this is certainly a whisky with a story to tell. A robust wine-y nose gives way to a rounded flavour of red fruits and delicate sweetness. At 62.3%, this is a whisky which fills the head rather than the stomach with warmth. It is a marvellous dram that tickles all the palate with a rounded depth from the fine red wine finish.

This was served with a goat's cheese semifreddo, apricot puree and summer berry candy: a delightful pud and a wonderfully sweet way to draw the evening to a close.

This was a splendid end to the tasting series, with some of the finest whiskies we've sampled throughout the tastings and easily some of the best food pairings.

The next round of tastings are already planned, and we're sure to be booking on to a few!

Jim

Homage 2 Fromage

Totally unable to resist anything that's name includes an excellent cheese-based pun, we were delighted to be invited along to Homage 2 Fromage last week. A monthly club dedicated to all things cheese, Homage 2 Fromage started three years ago in Leeds and has since expanded to our humble home town.

Hosted in guest venues, this month's setting was the lovely Tamper Coffee. Vickie and Nick, the founders of Homage 2 Fromage and self-proclaimed cheese enthusiasts, welcomed us to the venue and explained the rules - cheese is called at 7pm, before which time you may approach the cheese, appreciate the aesthetic quality and aroma of the cheese, but under no circumstances must the cheese be in any way fondled or sampled! Once the tasting kicks off, it's all in, help yourself - there's an array of breads, crackers, chutneys and pickles to accompany the cheeses and discussion is much encouraged.

There's no lofty pomposity here - just a group of individuals having a bloody good time eating cheese. Nick described the feel of the event perfectly - "If cheese and wine is the opera, we're more rock and roll".

Each event has a theme, and this month we were treated to award-winning cheeses from the Great Yorkshire Show. A total of seven cheeses were available, which were tasted blind before being revealed to the group. On offer were:

Cheeses 1-3

1. Mary Quicke's Traditional Vintage Cheddar - a lovely soft and creamy, full-flavoured cheddar.
2. Olde York - a gentle, crumbly, soft white cheese. Laura's favourite of the evening.
3. Capricorn Goats Cheese - a deliciously delicate cheese, that wasn't too overpoweringly farmyard-y in flavour. Aptly described by Nick as a "gateway to goat".
4. Monks Folly - clean and almost lactic in flavour, this was a classic mould-ripened cheese.
5. Dewlay Crumbly Lancashire - fresh and a little tangy, very moreish! Went down well with a Yorkshire crowd - high praise indeed.
6. Bluemin White - a blue and white hybrid! Not too strong and really creamy, this cheese is kept close to blue-veined cheeses, meaning the mould transfers to just the outside. This worked perfectly with ginger and rhubarb chutney.
7. Colston Bassett - a great example of a blue-veined cheese - the flavour you'd expect but not too harsh or stinky. A real crowd-pleaser and Jim's top cheese of the night.

Cheeses 4-7

We were particularly impressed by the fact that all the accoutrements involved were sourced from local producers - the bread was all from Seven Hills Bakery, with chutneys from Hedgerow and Just Preserves.

All-in-all, this was a great evening - full of humour, and possibly the most sociable event we've been to all year! It was also sold out, with Tamper packed to the beams - who knew that Sheffield was home to so many people who are passionate about cheese?! It curd-n't have been feta better*.

The aftermath!

Events are held on a monthly basis, and membership is also available for £10 per year, which includes discounted tickets to events and offers on cheese at an array of local retailers. Head on over to Homage 2 Fromage's website for more details!

L&J

*Apologies for the atrocious pun - impossible to resist sneaking one in!

A taste of Japan

We both happened to have a day off today, and weren't quite sure what to do with it. We then discovered that today is Sea Day, a national holiday in Japan to give thanks to the ocean - and so what better occasion than to use that sushi kit we got for Christmas!

We used two cups of sushi rice to two cups of water, which was massively overcatering for two people - this would have fed four for lunch or 6-8 as a starter. Carefully rinsing the rice before cooking is really important, as is leaving the rice to steam with the heat turned off for at least ten minutes after 10-15 minutes cooking over a low flame.

We chose to use Earl Grey smoked sea trout for the fish option, and bought ourselves a great piece of rump steak from the lovely folks at Mr Pickles, which was seared for 7 seconds on each side before being left to cool in the freezer for one hour, which allowed it to be sliced perfectly thinly. We went for cucumber, red pepper, courgette and spring onions too, which were all carefully cut to a uniform size.

We made maki (traditional rolls where the filling and rice is wrapped in seaweed) in veggie, fish and meat options, as well as temaki (the cone-shaped pieces), nigiri (sliced meat or fish on a bed of seasoned rice) and California rolls (where the rice forms the outside of the sushi).

As total novices who had never made sushi before, and having read a number of instructions implying it's pretty tricky, we did not have high hopes for how our little rolls would turn out. Imagine our surprise when they looked more than passable!

Garnishes and seasoning were wasabi paste, a dressing made from soy and garlic sriracha hot sauce, and home-pickled ginger.

Alongside a dram of Nikka from the Barrel, I feel we successfully paid homage to a little slice of Japanese culture.

Kanpai!

J&L